What to Do If Your Well Has No Water — A Step-by-Step Guide

Turning on the tap and getting nothing is alarming, but it does not always mean your pump has failed. Work through these steps in order before calling a contractor — the first two checks are free and take under five minutes.

Step 1: Check the Circuit Breaker

Find your electrical panel and look for the breaker labeled for the well pump. It may say 'Well Pump,' 'Water Pump,' or 'Pump.' If it is in the tripped position (usually between On and Off, sometimes at a slight angle), reset it: push it fully to Off and then back to On. Wait two to three minutes and try a faucet. A tripped breaker is one of the most common reasons a well suddenly loses water, and resetting it costs nothing.

Step 2: Check the Pressure Tank and Pressure Switch

Go to your pressure tank, usually in the basement, utility room, or pump house. Look at the pressure gauge — it should read at least 20 to 30 PSI when the system is pressurized. If it reads zero, the system has lost pressure. Listen for a clicking sound from the pressure switch on the side of the tank: rapid clicking often means the tank is waterlogged, not necessarily that the pump has failed. A waterlogged pressure tank is a fixable issue that is less expensive than a pump replacement.

Step 3: Rule Out Power-Related Causes

If you have had a power outage recently, your pump may simply need the system to re-pressurize. Some submersible pumps also have thermal overload protection that trips after the pump runs hot — usually from running dry or extended use. After the pump cools (20 to 30 minutes), the thermal overload may reset automatically. Check whether you have power to the panel and whether any other circuits on the same leg are behaving oddly.

Step 4: Check for Frozen Pipes (Winter)

In cold climates, pipes from the well casing to the pressure tank can freeze if they run through an uninsulated space. If temperatures have been below freezing and water stopped abruptly, frozen pipes are worth checking before assuming pump failure. Do not apply open flame to thaw pipes — use a heat gun, hair dryer, or heating tape. Start warming from the faucet end toward the pump.

Step 5: Call a Well Contractor

If the breaker is fine, the pressure switch is not clicking, and there are no obvious power or freeze issues, the next step is a professional diagnosis. A licensed well contractor can test the pump's electrical draw, measure static water level in the well, and determine whether you have a pump failure, a low water table, a failed check valve, or another issue. This is not a situation to delay — the longer a dead pump sits, the more time you have without water.

After the Repair: What to Know

If your pump has failed, this is also a good time to evaluate your pressure tank. If the tank is more than 10 years old or is suspected of being waterlogged, replacing both at the same time reduces future service call costs. Before the contractor leaves, ask for the pump make, model, horsepower, and depth. Document these for future reference — and for coverage eligibility if you are considering a well protection plan going forward.

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